5 Lies on Your Makeup Labels

Most of the claims on the front of makeup packaging mean absolutely nothing. Here's what you need to know to cut through the marketing jargon

"Oil free!"

"100 Percent Natural!"

"Long-lasting!"

Chances are you've seen these phrases on makeup labels -- and maybe you've even been persuaded to buy something because of one of these claims. Unfortunately, most of them don't mean much -- and even the ones that are technically accurate can be misleading.

That's partly because the FDA does not regulate what goes into cosmetics. And while there are guidelines for labeling, there's no review process in place. Most industry experts believe that's a good thing; if smaller brands had to jump through the FDA's countless hoops, most would never even make it to market, let alone succeed. But the lack of regulations also means that the responsibility then falls on consumers. It's our responsibility to see through the label lingo and understand what we're putting on our faces.

We talked to experts -- from dermatologists to manufacturers -- to find out what we really need to know when reading a makeup label. Most of the valuable information isn't on the front or anywhere in the product's name -- that's mostly marketing language created to get us to buy the product.

If you want to truly understand what goes into a formula, the list of ingredients is the best place to start -- and you may want to take a chemistry course before you begin. Here, we're decoding what the claims on makeup labels really mean to make it easier to understand what you're really putting on your skin.

Nobody really needs "oil-free"

Most people who are prone to breakouts are adamant about only wearing oil-free foundation and concealer because they think oil will make their acne worse. And now many beauty companies are making oil-free versions of just about everything -- even blush and eyeshadow -- to target these women. However, most dermatologists agree that having "oil-free" emblazoned across the label is mostly a marketing trick.

In fact, if you turn over your bottle of oil-free foundation, you may very well find oils on the list of ingredients. Companies substitute synthetic oils for natural versions in order to call the product oil-free -- and the irony is that many of the synthetic oils are actually more likely to irritate your skin.

"The key is looking for the word 'noncomedogenic' or 'nonacnegenic' on the label," explains Washington D.C. dermatologist Elizabeth Tanzi, MD. These terms indicate that the product will neither clog pores nor cause breakouts. While acne sufferers tend to avoid all oils, Tanzi stresses there are certain oils that are actually beneficial. Tea tree oil kills bacteria, and lavender oil is an antiseptic with anti-inflammatory properties.

Just because you see SPF doesn't mean you're safe

It's fantastic that so many companies are adding sunscreen to makeup -- we can all benefit from more daily SPF. But there are two very different kinds of sunscreen ingredients -- chemical and physical -- that work in opposite ways. Physical sunblock acts as a barrier on your skin to reflect UV rays. Meanwhile, chemical ingredients absorb UV rays and create skin-damaging free radicals.

"I'm a big advocate of physical sunscreens," says Tanzi. "My number one choice is zinc oxide, followed by titanium dioxide." If you're prone to breakouts, titanium dioxide may exacerbate them, but zinc oxide is an excellent choice.

Even if your makeup contains zinc oxide, you shouldn't rely on it as your only form of sun protection. Dermatologists recommend applying a teaspoon of SPF 30 or higher to your face -- and no one should be wearing that much foundation. The ultimate regimen is an antioxidant serum, followed by a teaspoon of sunscreen, and then a little makeup.

 "Natural" means nothing"   

"

Of all the confusion in the beauty aisle, organic and natural products might be the worst offenders. "FDA requirements say you only have to use 20 percent natural ingredients to say that a product is natural," explains Tyler Hanson, founder of Mineral Hygienics. "So the other 80 percent? Who knows?" If it's important to you that your makeup is truly organic, make sure the label specifies that the contents are "USDA-certified organic." And research the products through organizations like the Natural Products Association and The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics.

You may also want to consider whether or not natural is the best thing for you. "Just because something is organic or natural doesn't mean it won't irritate your skin," says Tanzi. "Lemon and orange oil are two of the most common irritants found in beauty products -- and that's true even if they're organic." If you have allergies, always do a patch test on the inside of your wrist before slathering an organic cream on your face.

"Anti-aging" ingredients don't really work 

So many makeup products are now calling out skin care benefits -- like anti-aging and anti-acne -- on their packaging. Unfortunately, smoothing wrinkles isn't as simple as adding a fine-line-fighting ingredient to a concealer.

"You can get anti-acne benefits from makeup that contains salicylic acid," says Tanzi. "But anti-aging ingredients? Not so much. And you're better off saving your anti-aging for nighttime anyway." (Many anti-aging ingredients are photosensitive and break down in sunlight.) While Tanzi recommends using makeup with built-in SPF to supplement your sunblock, she says that antioxidants in makeup aren't going to be particularly effective. "They're better delivered through a serum worn underneath your moisturizer," she says.

"Dermatologist tested" doesn't mean dermatologist endorsed

Just because a dermatologist tested a product doesn't mean that he or she liked the product. It's a semantic trick, and the phrase is basically meaningless

5 Bad Skin Habits That'll Shock You

You know your diet coke addiction and sunbathing ways are bad for your skin, but read on to see the mistakes you don't even realize you're making

 

I don't know about you, but I have heard all the same-old skin care tips (you know -- wear sunscreen, have a derm check your moles once a year, exfoliate twice a week).

We all know about these often-repeated good skin care habits we need to follow for a perfect, glowing complexion. And as beauty veterans, we're even familiar with the more obscure tips, like patting your moisturizer into your skin instead of rubbing it, or applying urine on your face to fight acne (which is so false BTW).

And even we were surprised -- no, shocked -- by these skin sins everyone commits, including us.

These 5 habits not only mess up your skin, but some can even wreck your health. So here they are, the bad skin care habits you -- yes, you -- are committing on a daily basis. See 'em, learn 'em, and fix 'em -- A.S.A.P.

Skin sin no. 1: Not using oil on your face 

Does simply hearing the word "oil" make you break out? While you may balk at the idea of applying oil on your face -- especially if you have oily skin -- using it can actually decrease your skin's oil production. Sounds crazy, but hear us out: Over-cleansing stimulates the sebum glands, which prompts more oil production, says Lori Cahitas, an esthetician for Murad, Inc. in Los Angeles. Introducing oil to the skin can have the opposite effect and actually slow oil production, making you less shiny. And contrary to popular belief, face oils can even improve acne. "Essential oils are anti-bacterial and anti-fungal, so they're very good at killing bacteria that's causing the breakouts."

Keep in mind that using oil on your face isn't just beneficial for those with oily skin; even normal and mature skin can benefit from this skin care habit. The key is to get high quality oil with a "molecular structure that's so small it can penetrate into your skin without sitting on top and clogging your pores," says Cahitas. One I love: Arbonne’s FC5 Skin Conditioning Oil $12.Use it after you cleanse at night, when you don't mind looking a little greasy.

 

Skin sin no. 2: Eating dairy and other inflammatory foods

Turns out that glass of milk your mother may have forced you to drink as a kid may actually be harmful to your skin and health. Dr. Jessica Wu, M.D., Los Angeles-based dermatologist and author of "Feed Your Face" says cow's milk -- even organic -- contains its own hormones and growth factors that are absorbed into the bloodstream. These hormones have androgenic effects that can cause acne in women. Dairy products are also pro-inflammatory, which means they can worsen acne issues and also accelerate aging, says dermatologist Nicholas Perricone, M.D. So find your calcium in other forms, such as dark leafy greens and tofu.

Speaking of tofu and other protein-packed foods, it's a good idea to limit your consumption of protein and not consume more than one type at a time. "Protein takes the most digestive work, as the foods have to be broken down into amino acids from complex chains," says celebrity nutritionist Kimberly Snyder. This energy spent on digesting protein takes away from what Snyder calls your "Beauty Energy," which she describes as "energy that can be redirected away from digestion to grow thick, healthy hair, clear up dark under-eye circles, repair the collagen in our skin, etc."

Skin sin no. 3: Using too much cortisone

Cortisone is one of those products in your home's first-aid kit that you most likely use to treat rashes and bug bites. While mild, over-the-counter forms like Cortaid and cortizone-10 can relieve redness, swelling, and flaking, it's easy to forget that cortisone is a type of steroid, and continual long-term use can lead to tachyphylaxis. That's medical speak for cortisone addiction, says Wu. "[When] the skin gets so used to having cortisone around to control any inflammation, it reacts if you suddenly stop using it," she says. "The skin 'rebounds' by becoming angrier and itchier than ever."

Overusing cortisone cream also causes collagen to break down, which leads to thinning of the skin and -- worst-case scenario -- stretch marks. So, how to use this product safely? Wu says to only use it when you really need it, and for a max of two weeks at a time. Also, use the mildest form and apply a very thin layer on areas with thin skin, such as the groin, face, and underarms.

Skin sin no. 4: Not airing out your makeup brushes 

While we know we should wash our makeup brushes once a week (or at least once a month -- we know how unrealistic it is to give them a good scrub-down every week), Wu says a common mistake is not letting them breathe after washing them.

Need a good reason to take this extra, time-consuming step? "I had a patient who developed a rare skin infection normally seen in aquarium workers and those who work with fish," says Wu. "We traced it back to her makeup brush that she'd been using twice a day but never aired out [after washing]." The lesson: Wash your brushes and don't stash 'em until they're bone dry. And of course, see your doc if you develop a new rash.

Skin sin no. 5: Drinking your water instead of eating it

 

You've heard the eight glasses a day rule a trillion times, we know. But it turns out your body doesn't retain a lot of that water, since it goes right through you during your frequent bathroom breaks. The secret to retaining water is by eating it, says Dr. Howard Murad, M.D., founder of Murad, Inc. and author of "The Water Secret."

Murad suggests noshing on foods that have large quantities of H2O, such as watermelon (97 percent water) and zucchini (95 percent water). Cells can more easily absorb the water in food since it comes along with other nutrients that the body needs to absorb. As a general rule, start eating more fruits and vegetables, which have higher percentages of water than processed foods and meat.

Your Skin: Both a protector and a passageway

Compared to other body structures, the skin is unique in being perpetually exposed to the  environment.

The skin is the largest organ of the body and it performs a variety of functions:

·         Protection is provided against biological invasion, physical damage, and ultraviolet radiation.

·         Sensation for touch, pain, and heat is provided by nerve endings.

·         Thermoregulation is supported through the sweating and regulation of blood flow through the skin.

·         Metabolism of vitamin D occurs in the skin.

·         Storage of blood that can be shunted to other parts of the body when needed takes place in the skin.

·         Excretion of salts and small amounts of wastes (ammonia and urea) occurs with the production of sweat.

Read more:http://www.cliffsnotes.com/study_guide/The-Skin-and-Its-Functions.topicArticleId-22032,articleId-21894.html#ixzz18ThnkCMh

The normal skin pH of the skin is acidic; between 4 to 5.5. This acidic pH mixture is called the acid mantle. The acid mantle protects the skin from bacteria. Bacteria get killed by the acid and cannot damage the skin. If you strip the skin of its acidic mantle by using strong alkaline soaps/cleansers, bacteria will find it easy to attack the skin. Moreover removing the acid mantle disturbs the distribution of dead cells on top of epidermis. This is called stratum corneum. The structure of cells in the dead skin cells layer gets disturbed and the bacteria find an easy passage through to the epidermis. Normally these dead cells protect the skin against such damages. These dead cells if allowed to accumulate will make the skin look very bad, but if totally removed, the skin is left defenseless to an extent. (Doctorgoodskin.com)

The sweat glands produce sweat in response to heat and stress. Sweat is composed of water, salt, and other chemicals. As sweat evaporates off the skin, it helps cool the body.  The sebaceous glands secrete sebum into hair follicles. Sebum is an oil, that keeps the skin moist and soft and acts as a barrier against foreign substances. (merckmanuals.com)

The rate of dermal absorption of a substance is proportional to both the concentration of the substance and the surface area over which it is applied.  The wider the contact area and the more concentrated the substance, the greater will be the absorption.

The thickness of the skin, especially the stratum corneum, also determines the degree to which substances are absorbed.  Thicker skin is a greater barrier to passage of foreign substances.  Depending on skin thickness, there can also be variability in the absorption of a given substance by different regions of the body.  For example, hydrocortisone is absorbed over 50-times greater by genital skin versus the skin of the palms.  www.cape.ca/children/derm2.html
 
So, why all of the talk about skin?

Exposure by skin absorption is much more potent and creates a more toxic effect

* Example – transdermal progesterone (like Arbonne’s Prolief products) vs. oral supplementation takes 70 times MORE orally to get the same effect

* Nicotine patches/heart medication/sea sick skin applied patches – are given because they work!

* ”In just 26 seconds after any exposure to chemicals, they can be found in every organ of the body.” – EPA brochure, Top 10 “Killer” Household Chemicals

* “The basic problem is that nowadays most of our products are made from petrochemical derivatives of nonrenewable crude oil.” (Dadd p. 12)

Why is this a problem? Primarily, because of what these petrochemicals do to our nervous systems and our hormones.

“Neurotoxins are so called because they are toxic to your nervous system. The core of your nervous system is your brain, which not only affects thinking and feeling but regulates every system in your body. When your nervous system is damaged, your entire body can be affected. The more common symptoms caused by neurotoxins are fatigue, memory loss, personality changes, headaches, sleep disturbances, muscle incoordination, visual disturbances, acnes and pains, and sexual dysfunction. And what are these neurotoxic substances? Many of the same petrochemicals that cause Multiple Chemical Sensitivity and cancer.” (Dadd, p. 19)

Tomorrow: Petrochemicals